TellusFashion

London Calling

Blog post   •   Oct 10, 2010 23:17 BST

London is home to some of the worlds most well thought of and credited fashion colleges such as the famous St Martins College. London has given us Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, the late and great Alexander McQueen, my personal favourite: Christopher Bailey. It has trained the likes of Christopher Kane and John Galliano so it would be fair for me to say -London fashion is exceptional and is quite rightly, one of the fashion capitals of the world. British style in general is one of a kind, interesting and innovative. It makes me proud to be British.

Brits truely embrace the fashion world and the fashion industry has become one of the biggest industries in the country. Consumers within the fashion industry spend £46 billion so I think its fair to say we have a country full of shopaholics and clothes lovers! I reckon I make a fair contribution to that with my shopping addiction.

London Fashion Week alone makes around£20 million every fashion week and generates around £100 million in after show sales – pretty impressive Britain!

The Shows…

What an impressive week of amazing shows and presentations from some of the most renowned designers the fashion world has to offer us. The overall vibe at LFW was an exciting selection of colour, texture, print and movement. The collections were dynamic and majority of the new season lines moved away from the normal spring/ summer trends you tend to see every year.

Although there were a few of those reoccuring trends we see year in year out: tribal, florals and pastels – thats not to say that they weren’t amazing!

For me personally, I picked up on a lot of metallics, rich plums, earthy tones and there was plenty black – usually something you would expect from Autumn/Winter collections. I liked it a lot.

Collections were tough, we saw plenty studs, spikes sharp structures. They were also feminine, floating and soft. This made SS11, a season that will have a little diversity and more options for avid fashion followers to channel next summer.

The shows that had the impact…

So yes, like every year there were shows upon shows that deserve to be mentioned but I had to whittle it down to a select few that really gave me goosebumps.. ok more than a few. Lets say 6.

In at number 6 for me was the fantastic Charles Anastase who I blogged about earlier in the week. Charles Anastase is a designer I don’t really know much about but the collection this season made me fall in love with the brand BIG TIME. It reminded me a little of Alice in Wonderland with the quirky combinations of pastel colours. I couldn’t stop looking at the green tights and orange platforms -two of my least favourite colours but it worked so well with the collection. Its quirky cool and right up my street when it comes to style. Charles Anastase is one to watch in the future – I can’t wait to see what else will be on offer in the future!

Next up is PPQ. PPQ haven’t been my favourite in the past and I wasn’t quite sure if I actually liked their AW10 collection or not. Sometimes I think their pieces can look really cheap and tacky but something about their SS collection really grabbed my attention. I think I’m like a little magpie because those metallics just won me over. The collection was a little space age with some bold prints thrown in the mix. They presented a very consistent collection and everything flowed seamlessly. Even the monkey hats didn’t make me turn away!

I would say there was a strong tribal feel for PPQ at LFW. Very nice indeed!

Matthew Williamson is another one of those hit or miss designers for me. Sometimes he creates beautiful prints or embellished pieces and then sometimes I look at it and think .. Matthew.. what were you thinking?! ..I’m sure he values my opinion!

This season there was a little element of Burberry don’t you think? Maybe I’m just Burberry in the head but it did remind me a bit of AW10 Burberry Prorsum.

None the less I really rated this show and loved how structured his pieces were, the earthy tones worked perfectly for another take on tribal that came down the catwalk this fashion week. There was so much texture, it had movement, it captivated, it made me fall back in with Matthew for next season – again I’m sure he will be relieved at that!!

Another designer I’ve never really picked up on before is Jean-Pierre Braganza. It was all about prints at this show. Some pretty amazing ones at that.

The garments were well tailored with plenty of layering which gave the tailored pieces a bit of animation. Vogue.com added that the models instantly “transformed into exotic birds as they came down the runway. Ones that had taken flight and found themselves in a contemporary and urban landscape”. I love that description. It really gives a strong perspective on the impact the collection had as it came down the runway. It must have been a fantastic show to watch.

Mary Katrantzou was by far my favourite last fashion week with her decadent prints and this season she gets top marks again. Speaking to Londonfashionweek.com she explained that her collection was inspired by fashion photography, the world of interiors, lampshades and industrial jewellery… I would love to see what goes on in her head!!

That random combination of influences seemed to work because wow… her collection was unreal and when she said she was inspired by lampshades..she truely meant it and made sure that was made clear in this collection. I LOVE IT!

Mary explains that the Mary Katrantzou woman has a liberated spirit and a strong sense of style. She would certainly have to, to pull this off. I’m pretty sure people would be trying to plug me in or change my lightbulb if I ever tried to pull off a lampshade dress.

I can totally see Lady GaGa sporting the lampshade look soon! She will be kicking herself that she never thought of it first!

Last but certainly not least.. a show that stood out to me was the Amanda Wakely SS10 show.

So there might have been better collections shown at LFW but I feel that Amanda Wakely is moving forward and can only be getting better by the season. The brand is definately changing its target market to a much younger consumer, this was well communicated in the pieces for SS11. Amanda stuck to her signature draping but this time it was much more fashion forward. The collection again was certainly tribal (I appear to be ‘digging’ this trend by the looks of things). There was a huge African influence with this collection – her garments were stitched together with so much atty ention to detail – there was breathtaking beading on some of her dresses which caused a stir in the audience as thewere presented. The collection was visually strong with so much texture, belts and fantastic neck pieces that you could only describe as pieces of armour. It tied in well with the whole theme. She has definately grabbed the attention of the fashion savvy and has already been signed up to the wonderous online retailer Net – a – Porter.

Speaking to Amanda Wakeley Glasgow’s manager Aaron King, he told me ” The atmosphere at the show was so exciting, every piece stood out. There were gasps of excitement and adoration as those beaded dresses came down the runway. It was more that what most people expected.”

Looks like things have definately taken a good turn for the luxury brand!

So there you have it, my favourite shows from the entire LFW, but dare I say it.. I did have some disappointments along the way…

So lets start with what I would say is the obvious .. Ashish.

I can’t say I’ve ever really liked Ashish. Its just too brassy and trashy for my liking but come on, this show was a bit ridiculous. I felt like I was witnessing fashion faux pas left right and centre and no-one was doing anything to stop it!! Seriously, seriously hate (strong words I know) cowgirl/ cowboy/ ACTUAL cow inspired pieces -why must you hurt my eyes like that?! It was awful and I cringed from start to finish as I watched the live streaming of the show. I would be interested to know if anyone actually does like the brand (being slightly dramatic now).. please give me your opinion and explain to me what it is that you like about it.

The next one on the hit list has to be Giles. I’m usually quite supportive of his work but this one just wasn’t doing anything for me. I guess its not the most tragic collection out there but I just couldn’t get to grips with the garish prints I was seeing before me.. and the neon, is there any need for it really unless you are heading out to a rave? It was just to busy for me and a little too much. I think what honestly annoyed me most was the fact Kelly Brooke and Abbey Clancy were strutting down the runway – it just made the whole show seem like a pantomime filled with cameos. Slightly cringey. These usually beautiful woman looked pretty rotten too (I don’t mince my words) with the crazy make-up plastered on their face.

Not good, Really disappointed in the overall collection and the fact that vogue actually compared his tutus (shudder) to pink jelly fish “bouncing” down the catwalk makes me think that just possibly this collection wasn’t taken all that seriously.. Sorry Giles!

Now.. this one breaks my little heart to have to say this but Burberry Prorsum you are making me feel a little sad…

I did love the collection but I just didn’t really get what I had expected with this one. I eagerly sat waiting for this show to start, made sure I was home in plenty time after uni.. had my laptop set up, had the burberry prorsum website loaded aswell as the london fashion week live stream. I even had my flat mates laptop as a back up, thats how excited I was for this show. So after half an hours prep and a few technical difficulties the lights at the Burberry show dimmed.. I screamed a little and then the music started.. oh dear. Don’t get me wrong, I love a bit of The Feeling but for a fashion show? I’m not quite sure it had a powerful enough effect. Maybe I was just expecting the show to be extremely fast paced with strong beats so it left me a little confused as I watched the models practically run down the catwalk to slow music.. hmm. I then became entirely distracted with the models pulling off their ridiculous, unwearable shoes half way down the catwalk, it really took away the impact of the beautiful pieces Christopher Bailey had created. It was so unfortunate. And that model.. that poor  model who took a tumble – it left me traumatised (did I mention that I’m slightly dramatic at times?). I noticed this girl earlier on in the show with her dreadful walk – I think she looked like a complete bundle of nerves the full time but oh my to put her as the closing model – eek! Her fall seemed to last for ages and it was genuinely gutting that it ended the show like that.. I really hope they make up for it next season ..please god!

The unexpected…

The unexpected for me this fashion week was House of Holland. I don’t usually go for his clashing colours, 80s inspired, pick n mix of random prints collections.. but this season I had a change of heart. Things were a little different. The colour palette this time wasn’t too horrific, (I always associate House of Holland with bright purples and oranges. I’m sure he uses more colours than that but they seem to stick out in my head most)this time round there was, what seemed to be a much calmer colour palette on the go. Mainly greens, pinky purples and powder blues. It was refreshing.

However I still found some faults with it – not really sure about the pom pom earrings and I can’t quite decide if metallic stars dotted all over a little shift dress is quite what women want but there was a lot of great pieces there that overshadowed the bad ones.. in particular these outfits below…

Who had the best front row…

I think the clear winner of the best front row line up had to be Burberry Prorsum. They had Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Your Royal Fashion Heinous Ms Anna Wintour, Poppy Delevigne and tennis pros Serena Williams and Andy Murry – Pretty impressive ‘frow’!

So was London Fashion Week a winner guys?…

I would say so.. it spilled out so many innovative, creative and fashion forward collections yet again and for me its my most anticpated fashion show of the season – I just can’t get enough of British fashion. Its undoubtedbly the best fashion there is!!

H x