Typically, a thorough final sanding of the wood with one suitable grit will "even out" the absorption of the stain. White stain on a bare softwood or oak floor might require a final 'prep' sanding by hand with an orbital/vibrating sander with 80 or 100 grit, whereas certain hardwoods might be orbitally or hand sanded with 220 grit and higher for a darkish organic stain on furniture. Though it is not as durable, "garnet" is by far the preferred sandpaper for hand-sanding bare wood; first because it is a sharper and faster cutting grit, and second because it does not impart color from the grit, as aluminum oxide or silicon carbide can do. Other methods include "rubbing" with rottenstone etc.
Thoroughly vacuum all dust and loose dirt from the surface (Fig. 1). Next, wipe the floor with towels dampened with a good-quality hardwood floor cleaner. We used Squeaky Wood Floor Cleaner by Basic Coatings Inc., P.O. Box 677, Des Moines, IA 50303; www.basiccoatings.com. Mix one part cleaner to four parts water (Fig. 2). Place several large towels into the bucket, then wring one out, leaving it damp (Fig. 3). Wrap this towel around a clean broom and begin wiping the floor (Fig. 4). Turn the towel frequently, wiping until the area is free of dirt. Change towels as needed to keep a relatively clean wiping surface. Allow the surface to dry thoroughly before proceeding
Mr.Sandless Franchise LLC Floor :If your old finish is merely scratched and dull, you can skip the sanding and go right to recoating the floor. The job should take only a couple of days, and, if you recoat the floor every three or four years, you may never need a complete refinishing job.
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