First Winter Trilogy on Piz Palü: Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner Climb All Three North Pillars in a Single Day

On March 8, 2026, the BOA®-supported alpine duo Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner achieved an extraordinary feat: in just 8 hours and 59 minutes from start to finish, they climbed all three north pillars of Switzerland’s Piz Palü in winter – the East Pillar, Bumiller Pillar, and Spinas Pillar – completing the pure climbing sections in 6 hours and 25 minutes. In doing so, they made history: a winter combination of all three north pillars had never been achieved before.

An Extraordinary Challenge in Mixed Terrain

“Piz Palü is, for me, one of the most beautiful mountains in the Alps; the pillars are perfectly aligned – an aesthetic overall project,” Philipp explains. That this objective could be achieved in winter makes the climb particularly remarkable: while summer ascents are relatively frequent, winter routes on the north pillars are rare – conditions with snow, ice, cold, and long approaches are simply too demanding.

Even in ideal weather, climbing with crampons on ice and rock remains challenging. Snow must be cleared from holds, temperatures are low, and every move demands precision and teamwork. “Climbing all three pillars in a single winter day was an immense challenge,” says Lukas.

Perfect Planning, a Well-Rehearsed Team

Success depended on precise preparation and experience. “We knew exactly what was possible. If you can climb the Eiger North Face in winter in four hours, or the Bonatti Route on the Matterhorn in a day, you can realistically judge what’s feasible on the Palü,” Philipp explains.

This self-assessment, combined with a well-practiced rope team, allowed for a smooth, stress-free progression. “We simply followed our own pace – never rushed, but consistently efficient,” Lukas adds. “Everything just went perfectly. No mental lows, no hesitation – just an amazing day on the mountain.”

Maximum Performance with Minimal Weight

Equipment also played a decisive role. The duo relied on particularly lightweight gear that delivers efficiency without compromising safety. Full trust in your equipment is the foundation for endeavors of this kind. In winter, days are short – everything must be functional, lightweight, and flexible for movement. Models with reduced insulation, supported by the BOA® Fit System, allow for rapid, precise micro-adjustments at belay stations and ensure precision fit and control.

Their gear included the G-Tech from La Sportiva, the Trilogy Sky 15L+ from Millet, and ski touring boots from the Scarpa Alien Series – all featuring the BOA® Fit System for micro-adjustments under changing conditions.

A Day for Alpine History

Conditions on that day were optimal – at least by winter standards: little fresh snow, almost no wind, stable conditions on the pillars, and safe descents. “We didn’t have to change any plans along the way – everything just fell into place,” Lukas says.

And what remains? “Besides all the silly comments along the route, of course, the summit feeling at each pillar – every time a little milestone,” Philipp laughs.

The first winter trilogy of Piz Palü’s three north pillars stands as an impressive testament to modern alpinism: technically precise, mentally strong, with a sense for the line – and with a lightness that only years of experience, perfect teamwork, and the right equipment can provide. Efficient, lightweight gear and innovations such as the BOA® Fit System play a decisive role in making peak performance possible even under the toughest conditions.

Philipp Brugger, born in 1991, is an Austrian alpinist and trail runner from Telfs. He has completed multiple first ascents in Pakistan and set numerous speed records across the Alps. In April 2025, together with Nicolas Hojac, he climbed the north face trilogy of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau in just 15 hours and 30 minutes.

Lukas Waldner, born in 2001, is an alpinist from Innsbruck specializing in fast, technically demanding alpine projects. In autumn 2025, he achieved a major milestone with the first ascent of Kimshung (6,781 m) in Nepal, alongside numerous challenging winter and first ascents across the Alps.

The two have been climbing as a rope team for many years. Their highlights include the first ascent of Shauè Sar (6,653 m) in the Karakoram (2022), the fastest winter ascent of the Bonatti Route on the Matterhorn north face (2024), and the first Valsertal north face trilogy in April 2025.

The winter trilogy on Piz Palü embodies the highest standards of alpine climbing. Executed with precision, BOA® is excited to see what comes next.