Closing the Loop: Transforming the Textile Industry Through Cutting-edge Polyester Recycling.

60% of all newly produced textiles are made of polyester, but despite the significant environmental impact of fossil-based production, only a negligible fraction is recycled. Rewin aims to change this with its unique technology and business model for polyester recycling. The establishment of a polyester recycling facility is part of an innovation project realized in collaboration with Wargön Innovation, leveraging its expertise in textile circularity, and Vargön Alloys, contributing waste heat to create an energy-efficient recycling process.

The demand for recycled materials is increasing from both industry and consumers, and the expected collection of textile waste will require new solutions to extend the life of textiles. Rewin, a pioneering Swedish company in the recycling industry, aims to be a leading force in the circular transition by recycling discarded polyester, a material that is currently largely incinerated.

- We know that polyester has long been the most common material in the manufacturing of clothing and textile products, but the production of polyester poses a significant environmental challenge. Today, less than one percent of all discarded textiles, including polyester, is recycled. Our goal is to minimize the industry's environmental impact and promote a circular and sustainable production cycle by fiber-to-fiber recycling of discarded polyester," says Henrik Wene, one of the founders of Rewin.

The foundation of Rewin's groundbreaking process lies in the chemical extraction of pure polyester from collected textiles. The meticulous extraction process results in the production of high-quality refined polyester ready for use in the production of new textiles. By summer 2024, the aim is to develop a first test and demo facility for recycling in Malmö. Once operational, the plan is to move it to Vargön Alloys at the Wargön industrial and innovation park in the west part of Sweden

- Over the next four years, we will optimise our technology in a pilot facility, and in the project's later stages, the goal is to commence the construction of a full-scale facility. In addition to the environmental impact of polyester production, we see that upcoming EU legislation is driving demand for fiber-to-fiber recycled polyester," says Anders Arkell, Chief Technology Officer at Rewin.

Already today, recycled polyester is found in garments in an increasing number of stores, but Anders Arkell argues that consumers should not be deceived.

- The recycled polyester companies use today comes from PET bottles. These should circulate in a closed system for the food industry and not be used to create textile fibers. Our solution provides recycled polyester material through fiber-to-fiber recycling, contributing to creating a closed system for polyester within the textile industry."

EU Legislation Paves the Way

The EU has intensified efforts to reduce the environmental impact of textile production, including an update to the waste directive. Within the framework of these changes, the EU lays the foundation for collecting textile waste separately, similar to the existing system for glass and cardboard. How the new directive will be implemented in Sweden is yet to be determined. If the extensive collection advocated by the EU becomes a reality, it will result in large volumes of textile waste. These volumes, along with the industry's increasing demands for sustainability and circularity, create a clear demand for innovative and circular business solutions.

- From the large amount of textiles that will be collected, as much as possible should go to reuse and, secondarily, to various repair and redesign services. But no matter how much we can extend the life of textiles, there will always be a significant need for textile recycling, both for textiles that have reached the end of their lifespan and textile waste from the industry. For us at Wargön Innovation, it is important to support innovations with a big impact to close the loop and create a circular and sustainable textile industry," says Markus Danell, director of Wargön Innovation.

Sustainable Success Through Industrial Symbiosis

Recycling processes are energy-intensive, and to increase environmental benefits, it is crucial to minimize the environmental impact of the energy used in the process. The strategic location of Rewin's facility adjacent to Vargön Alloys enables industrial symbiosis where waste heat from the ferrochrome smelter's production is made available. Currently, this waste heat is directly sold to the district heating networks in Vänersborg and Trollhättan.

- Our alloy furnaces generate heat of high temperature. Having another actor benefit from the high-quality thermal energy is good for both of us. It naturally strengthens our environmental efforts, which have always been a crucial part of Vargön Alloys. It also provides concrete benefits to our operation by allowing us to optimize the use of our resources," says Urban Frisk, Plant Manager at Vargön Alloys.