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The true spirit of Christmas in Norwegian fjord towns
Every city and town across the world has its own Christmas traditions – the traditions that happen every single year that you just can't be without. In Fjord Norway, the run-up to Christmas is a time for relaxation, joy and expectation. It all starts with that feeling you get when the Christmas lights are switched on at the end of November.
In Norway, Christmas and advent are one of greatest highlights of the year. Norway’s small fjord villages are lit up in the darkness, and the towns are completely transformed with what Norwegians like to call Christmas kos – cosiness – with candlelight, Santa hats, gingerbread, mulled wine, incense and Christmas concerts. The traditions are different and unique from other places in Norway. They have a wonderful effect on those living by the fjords and not least on those who come to visit.
Christmas "kos" on the menu
The word kos, or cosiness as it is called in English, is a collective term that Norwegians often use when talking about Christmas. Candles are lit on tables and windowsills, and Christmas lights and decorations adorn houses and gardens. The air is filled with Christmas smells from incense, fir trees, smoke from bonfires, and not least the Christmas food and cakes that are served everywhere. In Egersund, they make a special Christmas town, where you can wander among the small wooden houses and enjoy the tastes, smells and sounds that fill your heart with Christmas spirit. In other fjord towns and cities, such as Bergen and Ålesund, Christmas is everywhere and fills you with Christmas spirit.
Christmas markets with a Norwegian twist
The Christmas markets are full of Christmas kos. Of course, many towns in the world have their own markets, but Norway’s markets are probably completely different to what you may be used to. There are local producers at the markets, with decorations and food, mulled wine and gingerbread are served around the fire, there’s live Christmas music and Christmas decorations are made, as people sing Christmas carols. Vinterland, in the town of Sandnes outside Stavanger, was named Christmas town of the year in 2021, and the Christmas markets in Old Stavanger offer an experience that far exceeds going shopping for the same old Christmas decorations that can be found everywhere. Towns and cities such as Bergen, Ålesund, Molde and Kristiansund also have their own unique Christmas markets, that awaken the senses and really get you in the Christmas spirit.
A bright and sparkling advent
Christmas lights are an essential part of Norway’s Christmas celebrations. It’s dark outside most of the time, so lights are an important ingredient for creating that perfect Christmas atmosphere. Towards the end of November (often the last weekend), towns arrange various types of light festivals, where the lights on the towns’ largest Christmas tree are lit and their Christmas lights are switched on, and locals and visitors can watch fireworks light up the night sky. The Lysfest festival of light in Bergen is a Christmas tradition that sees almost the entire city gather in the centre to celebrate. The same happens in smaller towns like Kristiansund, where a festival is staged in the harbour for the whole family. The Christmas lights stay on until 13 days after Christmas, when old laws and traditions dictate that Christmas decorations have to be taken down.
Have yourself a tasty Fjord Norwegian Christmas!
There are different traditions around Norway for what foods are served before and during the Christmas season. Fjord Norway has its own strong food traditions. In the olden days in Fjord Norway, food had to be stored and preserved to last through the cold winter, so there was a lot of dried and salted meat and fish. Pinnekjøtt – salted dried ribs of lamb or mutton – served with potatoes, mashed swede, and carrots, is the most common main course. Some Norwegians also serve lutefisk – dried cod preserved in lye – with various trimmings. For drinks, Norwegian Christmas aquavit is often served in a small glass, and dark Christmas beer served in a large one beside it. For dessert, rice cream, cloudberry cream and Christmas goodies biscuits are typically served.
Gingerbread for the people!
Speaking of Christmas baking and ‘the town within the city’, did you know that the world's largest gingerbread town can be found in Bergen? Gingerbread is the most famous of the seven varieties of Christmas biscuits that are baked in Norway. There are gingerbread figures and houses of all shapes and sizes, and families, schools and kindergartens contribute to what is the world's largest gingerbread town, in the centre of Bergen. Visiting this charming little town within the city is a must on the agenda for all families, and is an important tradition in Bergen for children and adults alike. Other towns and cities in Fjord Norway have their own gingerbread towns, but the one in Bergen is the most famous of them all.
A time for Christmas music, theatre and shows
Norway's fjord towns and cities host a rich cultural programme throughout the year, but in the run-up to Christmas it’s taken up a gear. Around Christmas, stages are filled with Christmas concerts, Christmas theatre productions and shows, and there are exciting cultural events at various museums. During the weekends before Christmas, you can experience among other things a living museum, concerts, dance and theatre at Romsdal Museum. In all the towns and cities, you can enjoy Christmas concerts and listen to both Norwegian and international Christmas songs. Every Sunday, a new candle is lit in the Christmas wreath, and candles are lit across towns and cities to mark the occasion. The theatres stage family shows based on Norwegian Christmas stories, and comedy shows are staged in towns and cities.
Dreaming of a white Christmas? Where’s all the snow?
In Norway, there’s a lot of snow in winter, and many people also expect there to be lots of snow everywhere in Fjord Norway. That's not always the case though. A number of visitors are actually quite surprised when they arrive in a town or city along the coast to discover there’s hardly any snow to be found – but the snow is often just a few minutes away. In Bergen, Stryn and most other towns and cities that are close to mountains (there are a lot of them in this region), it’s easy to get to the snow-covered countryside. In Bergen, for example, you can take the Fløibanen funicular up mount Fløyen – one of the city's seven mountains – where there's often snow even when there's none in the city centre. It’s great for skiing, snowshoeing and sledging. If you want a lot of snow, you can take the train to Voss, or visit snow paradises like Røldal, Strandafjellet, the Sunnmørsalpene mountains or Sauda. You won’t be far from the snow when you visit Norwegian towns and cities, and the contrasts in nature are often greater in winter than at other times of the year. How about a guided tour to one of Norway’s great icons such as Trolltunga or Preikestolen (the Pulpit Rock)? Whether you love the snow or just want to enjoy the open, magnificent fjord and mountain landscapes, the run-up to Christmas is a perfect time to visit. A number of mountain lodges and hotels are open for those looking for Christmas cheer in the mountains.
Getting to Fjord Norway is easier than you might think
How on earth can you get to the fjords in the middle of winter? With direct flights to Stavanger, Bergen and Ålesund from European cities such as London, Paris, Copenhagen, Amsterdam and Frankfurt, Fjord Norway is not as difficult to get to as many people think. It's actually very accessible, and a weekend trip or a break from your everyday life is just a plane or boat ride away. If you fly via the capital Oslo, you can also travel eco-friendly by train to Åndalsnes (near Ålesund and Molde), Stavanger and Bergen.
