Hokkaido: A Journey Into Japan’s Untamed North

Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, has always felt like a mystery to me. Of course, Sapporo does have a cosmopolitan buzz that feels very much in line with the rest of Japan. Venture outside the capital, however, and you will quickly be introduced to the island’s spectacular nature. That was the goal for this trip: I wanted to go beyond the city and dive into the wild side of Hokkaido.

Overall, my impression was quite simply that Hokkaido is different. Forget the temples and shrines that dominate the image of Japan, as Hokkaido is a frontier land. Its history is not about emperors and shoguns; it is about pioneers carving out a life in rugged terrain, a story that feels closer to the American West than Tokyo or Kyoto. What really struck me, though, is the deep connection between the people here and the wild, untouched nature around them, a bond that the region’s indigenous Ainu have maintained over centuries. For the Ainu, the lakes, mountains, and forests are not just scenery; they are sacred. And as I explored, I began to understand why.

My route primarily took me along the eastern flank of the island, a region where nature reigns supreme. While the quaint rural trains that service this area sure are charming, the best way to experience eastern Hokkaido is by car. Renting a car in Japan is easier and more affordable than most people think, and nothing beats the feeling of driving through vast landscapes with no other car in sight.

After landing in Memanbetsu Airport and picking up my car, I drove up to the Shiretoko Peninsula. Most of the peninsula has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is thus largely left untouched, with most sojourns into the area requiring a guide. On my first night, I decided to join a Night Safari, which took me into the peninsula for the first time. I really did not know what to expect when I boarded our small van, but was quickly left amazed by the amount of animals our guide (armed with a powerful flashlight) was able to spot.

As we drove through the darkness, we kept our eyes peeled for brown bears, Ezo deer, red foxes and even owls perched silently in the trees. Luckily, our only encounter with a bear was from a safe distance, as we spotted one from above a high bridge. All the other animals we are able to see up close, however, and this gave me the perfect introduction to all of the wildlife that calls Shiretoko home. And then there was the scenery: the moon casting silver light over the Shiretoko mountain range, their silhouettes rising against the night sky. It felt untouched, raw, and alive—a side of Hokkaido most travelers never see. My hotel for the night was the KIKI Shiretoko Natural Resort, which blends comfort with an interior that pays homage to the area’s nature. Aside from the hot spring, I especially enjoyed the massive selection at the buffet, with everything available being sourced from local ingredients.

The next morning, I wanted to continue exploring, so I headed to one of Shiretoko’s most iconic sights, the Shiretoko Goko Lakes. These are five lakes surrounded by primeval forest, which can be explored either by yourself or with a guide. You can stroll along a 3 km ground-level trail or take the 800 m elevated wooden walkway, which offers safe viewing even if bears are nearby. Along the way, look for signs of wildlife like bear claw marks or holes made by woodpeckers, a reminder that Shiretoko’s true inhabitants are always close by.

In the afternoon, I hit the road once more to drive down to Lake Akan, a place where Ainu culture is still alive and thriving. Over a hundred Ainu people live in this area, and many share their traditions through museums and craft shops in the Lake Akan Ainu Kotan (kotan means “village” in Ainu). Walking through the Kotan felt like stepping into another world. I saw traditional rituals, everyday tools, and incredible crafts made by artisans whose families have lived here for generations. To get a better feel for the area’s nature, I cannot recommend the guided forest tour enough. Not only did the guide explain the local fauna and fauna is excruciating detail, he also helped me understand why this land is considered sacred.

One highlight? The mud volcanoes. These strange formations bubble with hot mud heated by underground thermal water, sometimes reaching 100°C. And if you venture north, you will find Mount Io, an active volcano that still steams and smells of sulfur. These natural wonders are not just geological quirks; they are woven into Ainu legends that have been told for centuries.

For my stay, I chose the Tsuruga Akan Yuku no Sato, a traditional Japanese hot spring resort. Unsurprisingly, their hot spring baths and spa offerings were the highlight, and a perfect way to relax after a day of exploring.

Finally, I made my way to Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, home to Japan’s largest wetlands. This vast, wild area is a sanctuary for countless species, including the iconic red-crowned crane (tancho), an endangered bird that has become a symbol of Hokkaido. The best way to explore? By canoe. The wetlands are tricky to access on foot, but paddling along the winding rivers gives you a front-row seat to landscapes most people never see. It was quiet, serene, and felt like I had slipped into a hidden world

After days of exploring Hokkaido’s wild east, I did decide to end of my trip in Sapporo for a little bit of a different vibe, and returning to the convenience of a major city like Sapporo was quite pleasant. While walking through downtown, I found myself exploring Tanukikoji Shopping Street, one of Hokkaido’s oldest shopping arcades. Stretching nearly 900 meters and home to about 200 shops, it’s perfect for browsing local crafts, picking up souvenirs, or just enjoying the lively atmosphere under its covered walkway.

From there, I wandered what is known locally as Chikaho, a massive underground pedestrian space that connects Sapporo Station with the rest of the inner city, stretching all the way up to the nightlife area of Susukino. It’s more than just a walkway, but rather a major hub with art displays, seemingly unlimited shopping options, and plenty of seating. Knowing how much it snows in Sapporo during the winters, and it makes abundant sense that the city’s planners built up this underground retreat to get around. Also within the city centre you will find the massive Odori Park, which runs through the heart of the city and is famous for seasonal events like the summer beer garden and winter snow festival.

To cap of the trip, I was aching to try something that is out of the ordiary, and the restaurant Nouvelle Pousse Okurayama fit the bill perfectly. Located at the historic Okurayama Ski Jump Stadium, where world-class athletes have competed, Nouvelle Pousse combines French culinary techniques with the delicate sensibilities of Japanese cuisine. Every dish celebrates Hokkaido’s seasonal bounty, from fresh seafood to premium local beef, prepared in a way that brings out the natural flavors. Beyond the food, the spectacular setting allowed me to enjoy Sapporo’s lit up cityscape from a perched location, which simultaneously allowed some time to reflect on my journey through Hokkaido. Whether you drive (about 20 minutes from central Sapporo) or take the subway and bus, it’s worth the trip.

For my final night, I stayed at the newly opened InterContinental Sapporo. Opened in October 2025, this luxury hotel combines Hokkaido’s natural beauty with urban convenience—a perfect finale to an unforgettable trip. It does not really matter if you are into nature and related outdoor activities, wellness (in the form of Japanese hot springs) or food, Hokkaido will definitely leave you satisfied. It is an island with a completely different vibe to the rest of Japan, and I for one can’t wait to return.